Let Your Hair Down

How Cancer and Hair Loss Impact One's Identity

Click on an image to hear each person's story.

Cancer is the one disease that has so permeated our society and our culture that just by saying its name we evoke emotions and memories.

Click on different products to learn more about the options for dealing with hair loss during treatment.

Even if you’ve never had cancer, it has touched your life in some form. It’s everywhere. It’s in our communities and our histories. It’s in movies and music and art. Still incurable, cancer remains an enigma – ancient, deadly and horrifying.

For those directly affected by cancer’s madness, one of the most devastating side effects is hair loss.

Like our hair, cancer – in all its forms – is a force within our lives. Everyone has hair. Everyone has been affected by cancer. And both shape our identities in different ways. The way we style our hair can express who we are, while cancer becomes the label by which others identify us.

One way cancer changes our identity is through hair loss. Hair gives us a choice. Cancer steals that freedom. And losing hair because of cancer is different for each person – no matter if they are a man or a woman.

Cancer rates is the second leading cause of death in America, and over 1.6 million people will be diagnosed with some form of cancer in 2016. Doctors and researchers alike continue to search for a cure, and although they have come a long way since cancer’s discovery, there is still much to be understood. This year alone, 700,000 young adults will be diagnosed with cancer, which was the leading cause of disease-induced death among those ages 17-39 in 2011.

And although each person is diagnosed individually, their diagnosis affects others in their life. They too experience pain, heartache and struggles.

Although many people shrug off hair’s importance in their lives, hair still has direct ties to identity, culture, power and barriers. For women in particular, hair remains something we battle with constantly. Something that makes us feel beautiful. Something that cripples us. Something that seems to define our femininity. Although men are more likely to be diagnosed and die from cancer, women especially struggle with hair loss, which forces them to re-examine themselves and their feminine identities.

Alison Trope, a professor of Communication at the University of Southern California, is one of the millions of people diagnosed with cancer. Although she has finished chemotherapy and radiation, she still has decisions to make in regards to her future. Her breast cancer metastasized and spread to her liver, where some of it still resides.

Once Trope started treatment, she decided to shave her head instead of watching her shoulder-length, blonde hair fall out slowly over time. Even though she recognizes that hair and its ties to femininity are social constructs, she says that it was still shocking to look into the mirror every day and see a different person.

“Perhaps, part of the change in your hair or your face or whatever is that sort of visual exterior manifestation of that idea that you can’t go back [after cancer],” Trope says.

Trope further explains, alongside other women, her experience losing her hair above.

During Chemotherapy, a nurse or doctor often explains its affects on the body. Your Chemotherapy cocktail will affect hair cells differently. Chemotherapy begins attacking hair cells.

Explore this image to learn more about how chemotherapy causes hair loss, according to Mayo Clinic.


Photo by: Catherine Clark

The Survivor

Colleen Keough is a professor of Communication at University of Southern California and a breast cancer survivor. Now in her sixth year of remission, she shares her cancer journey and her use of cold caps to keep her hair.

Photo by Catherine Clark

The Warrior

Alison Trope is a clinical professor of Communication at USC, where she specializes in media criticism. During her treatment, Trope has kept a blog with breast cancer survivor and fellow USC professor Judy Muller. Before Trope began to lose her hair, she chose to shave her head.

Photos courtesy of Stephanie Francois

The Lucky One

Stephanie Francois is a biomedical engineer currently working in Boston. Francois also started her own blog to share her cancer journey and to have a place to express her frustrations and worries throughout treatment. Although she is now in remission, Francois will finish chemo by the end of 2016.

Photo by: Catherine Clark

The Supporters

Alicia Syres and Sue Ellen Casalenuovo work at the Image Enhancement Center at USC Norris Comprehensive Cancer Center. Founded in 2002, the Image Enhancement Center is a boutique-style shop inside the hospital that sells wigs, mastectomy bras, gifts and other items for patients, their friends and their families.

Photos courtesy of Colleen Keough

Cold Caps

Colleen Keough, USC professor of Communication, explains what a cold cap is and what it was like to wear one during her cancer treatment. She was able to get her insurance to cover it, and even though her hair thinned, it stayed for the most part. Cold caps, or hypothermia caps, were first introduced in the 1980s and can only be used in specific situations and with specific types of chemotherapy.

Visitors at the 47th Annual Smithsonian Folklife Festival were invited to decorate scarves for cancer survivors on Jun. 29, 2013. (Photo by Elvert Barnes Photography)

Scarves and Other Head Coverings

Some women and men, who lose their hair during chemotherapy, prefer to cover their newly bald – and oftentimes irritated – heads with some form of head covering. They may choose anything from a simple ball cap to a beautiful scarf.

Photo from Rogaine

Rogaine or Minoxidil

Minoxidil is a drug found to reduce hair loss in men and women and a key ingredient in Rogaine. Although it hasn't been proven to prevent hair loss due to chemotherapy, past research has shown that applying it to your scalp can speed up hair regrowth.

Photo courtesy of Alison Trope

Shaving

Some cancer victims shave their heads at the start of treatment in order to minimize the shock of losing their hair. Oftentimes, people decorate their bald head as a step further. Alison Trope, USC Communication professor and breast cancer warrior, did just that. She shares her ritual for shaving her head here.

Photo by: Catherine Clark

Wigs

Wigs are a more popular option, especially for women. Breastcancer.org gives helpful tips for picking out wigs and wearing them while undergoing treatment. Wig Shop in Los Angeles sells a variety of wigs – some pictured here – including wigs made from "virgin hair," which is human hair that has never been dyed or altered.

Cancer Orientation

After being diagnosed with cancer, each person goes through New Patient Orientation, mentioned by Alison Trope. In this orientation, a nurse or hospital representative tells new patients what to expect in treatment and outside of it; teaches them and their families all the necessary tools to cope with cancer; helps them find resources in and out of the hospital; and lastly, allows them a moment to mentally and emotionally acknowledge their fears and concerns. Hair loss caused by treatment is also discussed during orientation.

Chemotherapy and Hair Loss

Every patient receives a unique chemotherapy drug cocktail that is specifically designed by their oncologist to fight their cancer. While two patients may have the same type of cancer, that cancer is uniquely theirs and must be fought as such. Some drug cocktails will cause hair thinning; a different mix only causes you to lose the hair on your head; and others may cause total hair loss – including body hair, pubic hair and eyelashes.

Chemotherapy Attacks Cells

Cancer cells begin their lives as normal cells that mutate, which causes them to divide rapidly and unceasingly. This infinite division of cells causes tumors to develop, and if left untreated, allows these cells to spread throughout the rest of the body (metastasis). Chemotherapy drugs attack these rapidly growing cells, but don't stop at just the cancer. Chemo attacks all rapidly dividing cells, including the good ones like those that cause hair growth. Each strand of hair grows at a rate of about 0.50 inches per month. Within two to four weeks of treatment, hair begins to fall out, either quickly in clumps or gradually.